The Gallardo battery is located in the front of the car
(Fig 2). There is a flap at the back of the trunk that opens to expose it.
While it is possible to install most switches without removing the trunk box
(see below) I find it much easier to do so with the box removed. Removing
the trunk box is quite easy. If you have not already done so remove the
partition that splits the trunk in two (This is required by US regulators so a
small child cannot lock themselves in the trunk. Lamborghini did not want to
install a hood opening pull wire!). Anyway the trunk is attached to the
frame of the car by 4 screws inside the bottom of the box. Then remove the
rubber waterproof seal around the top of the box. It is quite tight but peels
off when pulled up. Next lift the box out of the car. It is quite large
and heavy for it's size (fig 3). Figure 5 & 6 shows the before and after
installed key disconnect switch. The switch is shown in Figure 1. They are
very common and are found in most US auto stores. Also see
Removing rattles in a Gallardo for
more information about removing the trunk box.
The 500+ HP engine of a Gallardo
is requires a good battery to crank the car. If one is working on the car
with the doors open etc. running the battery down can happen easily. All older
Lamborghinis had a convenient battery disconnect switch that was either in the
engine area or inside the car. In later models it was a little more
in that when the battery was disconnected the radio loose its prefix settings.
Unfortunately in the Gallardo there is no such switch. You have to
disconnect the negative battery terminal every time. A real pain and not good
for the battery itself as flexing the terminal post can weaken the battery
internal structure. Fortunately there are many after-market battery "kill
switches" at most auto stores. I describe here how to install one.
|Fig 1 Battery
sure to attach the switch to the negative battery terminal. You will have
to loosen the attachment hook the binds the large negative lead wide to the
frame at one place to get more of a length on the wire loser to the battery.
The angle of the switch is not great but it has to be like this so the trunk
door flap will close. The only complication in putting in the trunk
box is reattaching the rubber waterproof seal. Having tried a number of way with
some frustration let me say the best way is to install the rubber seal first on
the car, attaching it all the way around the trunk box plastic frame/holder.
Press it down real well. Then insert the trunk box. Now the hard part, with a
screwdriver tease the rubber lip of the seal over the top edge of the trunk box.
Work all the way around (see fig. 7). This is not as easy as it looks!
Finally when tightening down the switch to close the
circuit always remember to make sure it is tight to avoid a bad battery
connection. This is a simple install and well worth the time and effort.
One point I should mention,
for a switch like this it is essential that the green knob of switch be screwed
down real tight to close the circuit. If it is loose it will shake open
disconnecting the battery leading to possible engine stopping, alternators
failure etc. I now have replaced the above switch with a second more
robust switch. It is one of many found in most well equipped auto stores.
It is completely self enclosed and has an on/off knob. If you work on your car a
lot and want a more reliable switch then you should use a switch like this (see
In order to connect a large switch like this you need a
place to put it that is easily accessible. I attached it to the plastic "cover"
over the battery as shown in figure 7. The one complication we have is:
the ground lead is too short. A second short lead (fig 8) is needed. This is
attached to the battery and one pole of the switch. Disconnect the + wire for
the battery while you are doing this. Also make sure all connections are tight.
Then you need to cut the battery connector on the ground lead (using a hacksaw)
and attach a copper nut attachment post (see fig 9, 10). This needs to be well
soldered to the copper lead. I use a propane/oxygen burner to heat the copper
lead and melt the solder. It is very important that a good connection is made.
Make sure the joint is well soldered. Again attach and tighten this lead to the
other switch pole (see fig 7).
Finally one other small improvement. There is a bracket
above the switch that gets in the way of the switch (fig 11, 12 & 13). It holds
two wire connectors but sticks down in the way of the switch. Remove the bracket
and cut off 1 inch from its bottom (its not needed) and reattach. This allows
the switch to sit nicely un-disturbed as shown in figure 14.