Below is a series of blow by blow accounts of progress illustrated with a
series of photographs. The car is a 1993 Diablo.
Please note currently, (Oct 2007), this is still a work in progress. I will
add more photographs as Hussein's work progresses. Also there are a
lot of photographs on this page so please allow time for them to download
from the server.
Lets get started....
First remove the engine cover and surround the outside of the car with
padding/blankets to prevent damage to the paint. Remove the engine air
inlet ducts and muffler. All hose and electrical connections to the
engine. Not shown here, but the gear shift leaver assembly from the car's
interior also needs to be removed. This is described in more detail
here
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Fig 1. Remove engine cover, rear spoiler
and air intake ducts |
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Fig 2. Remove muffler |
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Fig 3. Disconnect water and
oil hose connections |
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Fig 4. Lifting engine out of car |
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Fig 5 Engine out of car. Front
view. |
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Fig 6. Engine out of car. Side
view. |
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Fig 7. Engine on floor ready for
disassembly. |
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Fig 8. Top view of engine with
fuel intake manifold removed. |
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Fig 9. Cam cover removed. |
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Fig 10.
Timing chains |
Removed all the timing chains, gears and chain guides after marking
TDC (figs 11,12) . You can see that there is some wearing on the left
side chain guide but interestingly it is not where the chain sits!
Is this due to heat??
Sadly all the pistons (except one) had clearance issues.
This
project now grows into a major job! |
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Fig 11. Remove timing chain
cog wheels |
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Fig 12. Remove timing chain |
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Fig 13. Timing cog wheels
removed |
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Fig 14. View of cylinders |
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Fig 15.
Before cleaning engine parts |
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Fig 16. After cleaning engine
parts |
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Fig 17. Crankshaft diagram. |
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Fig 18. Inspect Thrust bearings. |
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Fig 19. Installing crankshaft |
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The liners above (Figs 14), had to be removed from the
engine as they also had clearance issue. It appears the
engine over heated few times resulting in damage. Upon opening
the engine it was found out that the engine was opened before and
whoever worked on the engine installed the Thrust bearing (the one
towards the flywheel) the wrong way see Diagram in figure 17.
Whoever was doing this probably was following the manual diagram which by the way is WRONG.
This mistake resulted in the scraping the Thrust bearing and it also
scraped the crank which resulted in a clearance issue. This made the
in and out crank movement out of its limit range (0.04-0.09); Due to
this the crank was scraping the cylinder block as you can see from
the picture (fig 18).
The machine shop smoothed the crank surface but
that resulted in further clearance issues for crank in and out
movement. The Machine shop wanted to weld on the crank and smooth
the surface again to solve this problem but we opted to use the old
Thrust bearing as shim for a new stock Thrust bearing from
Lamborghini. (They do not supply
Over Sized Thrust bearings for this engine!).
The trick worked fine and now we have 0.06 clearances which is within the limit.
The liners had to be removed from the engine as
they also had clearance issues as well. The machine shop said the engine over
heated a few times resulting in damage.
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Fig 20. Custom cylinder liners |
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Fig 21. Custom pistons |
Madlyhs said he could
not use the same cylinder liners but he honned the cylinder block
for new liners he had custom made. He sent two piston's (one from
each bank) and one liners with the technical spec and drawings to
Steve at
http://www.racetep.com/INDEXX.html and they made for him a set
of High Performance Custom Pistons and Liners for $5000 which is
$2320 less than the Lamborghini OEM parts. |
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Fig 22. Insert Liners into block |
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Fig 23. Tap liners gently into
final position |
Sliding the liners is easy. First apply lubrication oil on the
outer surface of the liner and the O ring. The liner will
slide in but a rubber hummer is still required to make it go all the
way down. |
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Fig 24. All Liners now in block. |
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Fig 25. New pistons ready to go |
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Fig 26. Slide each piston into
liner |
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Fig 27. Attach piston connecting
arm to crankshaft. |
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Fig 28. All pistons attached to
crankshaft. |
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Fig 29. Ready to applied
high temp silicon gasket and installed the crank case lower
mounting. |
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Fig 30. Applied silicon gasket on
the differential base so that we can install the oil cover. |
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Fig 31. Apply cover. |
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Fig 32. Apply silicon gasket to
lower crank case mount |
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Fig 33. Side view of assembly |
Next we will replace valve seals and grind valve openings for a
better seal. All 48 of them! |
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Fig 34. Next valves were
removed and new seals inserted |
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Fig 35. Used a valve spring
compressor tool to remove the tappet lock cone in order to remove
the valve springs. |
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Fig 36. |
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Fig 37. |
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Fig 38. The head was found to be
slightly warped. A common problem with engine overheating. It was
refaced in a machine shop so it has a exact flat surface. |
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Fig 38. Using grinding paste each
valve is then reseated in the head. |
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Fig 39. Madlyhs found out that the
valve seals from a BMW V12 engine are exactly the same in shape,
size, color, and material as that from Lamborghini. The complete set
(48 pieces) cost $50 ONLY a saving of $1390. |
For Reassembly,
Madlyhs
then placed the lower washers followed by the springs and the upper
washers. With the valve spring compressor tool he compressed each
spring in order to install the tappet lock cone. We then used
lubricating oil and placed the tappet & shim for each valve position
on its original place. With this the head is now ready to be
installed on the cylinder block. |
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Fig 39. The valve seals are
inserted |
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Fig 40. |
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Fig 41. Head before valve replacement |
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Fig 42. Head after valve replacement |
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Fig 43. It was realized that there was no way to install the engine
oil pump/water pump housing with the oil sump/Diff installed first.
Sadly there was no other option but to remove the Oil Sump/Diff
first in order to install the timing /housing. |
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Fig 44. Sump removed. |
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Fig 45. Install lower timing chains |
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Fig 46. Now cam chains |
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Fig 47. New and old chain guides |
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Fig 48. Cam chains with chain guides installed. |
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Fig 49. re-install the oil sump/Diff.
Had to remove the old silicon gasket before applying a new silicon
gasket to complete the installation. |
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Fig 50. Cam chains cover installed |
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Fig 51. Head gasket |
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Fig 52. Flywheel installed. |
Next install the head gasket and then the heads. Used a torque
wrench as the head needed to be tighten first 70 NM, then 90 NM, and
final torque 110NM. Also installed the flywheel in preparation to
set up the timing.
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Fig 53. |
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Fig 54. |
This is the most critical part of the job and needed to be done
accurately and according to the work shop manual...We confirmed that
piston 1 was in TDC and we placed the cams for the left side head
first. Then installed the chain tensioner and positioned the
cam so that the reference marks on the Cam and the Cap Coincided.
This part took a while to get it spot on as it is difficult once the
chain is installed. Moreover the cam position will move slightly
once you install Cap on the Cam and tighten it. After making sure
both Cams reference marks and Cap coincide. Then placed all
the other Caps according to their position and secured them.
Note, before we disassembled the engine we positioned
piston 1 in TDC , and we marked the cams and phase sensors
positions. Obviously we made sure that rotor arm coincide with
piston 1 on the distributor body during reassembly.
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Fig 55 Install com rods |
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Fig 56 Adjust to TDC |
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Fig 57. Tighten chain guide. |
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Fig 58. Finish cam supports |
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Fig 59. Install cam covers |
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Fig 60 Install plug guides |
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Fig 61. Install end gaskets |
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Fig 62. Install pulse generator |
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Refurbishing A 1993
Diablo Engine and Clutch (Continued - Second
Page) |
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Repairing the Clutch |
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See
this
section for pictures about repairing the clutch in this car. |
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Checking Out Rear Differential |
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While no problems were anticipated. It is always a good idea to check
out the rear differential when the engine is out of the car. This
process is described
here.
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