Removing the
engine from a Diablo is quite a complex task. There are a number of times
you may need to remove the engine from the car. The most common being when
you need to change the clutch. I will present at a later date information as
to how to do that . Right now lets concentrate on just getting the engine
out. You will need a few specialized tools and at least one other person to
help you. The engine itself weighs almost 1 ton, so a way to mechanically hoist
it out of the car is essential.
OK lets get started. We are going to work here
on a 1992 Diablo. This is a car owned by Dave Ayers in Sacramento CA. The process is essentially the same for all Diablo's - even
the 6.0L version. First we remove and set aside the engine cover and
back cover including the spoiler. This gives clear access to the engine and
exhaust system. See Fig. 2 below. In order not to scratch the
paint it is essential to surround the whole area of the car with a cloth
cover. Do not think for one moment you will remove the engine without
scratching the car without such a cover. Next we disconnect the battery.
Then remove the air ducts connecting the air intake to the engine. The
muffler is removed by opening bolts near ground level and C clamps attaching
it to engine (Fig 3). Fig 4 shows the muffler completely removed. Next
we need to disconnect the water hoses to the engine (Fig 5). This can be a
real messy job. Remember to first drain both radiators of all fluid .
Next you need to remove the two Y shaped aluminum tunes that connect the
water radiators to the car. They are connected with hose clamps and silicon
rubber tubing. Note how tight they are. You will need to remember this
when re-connecting them later. Figure 6 shows the car with all water hoses
removed. Next we remove the distributor cap, spark plug wires and the wires
connecting the distributor to the ignition coils under the left fender. On
later model cars the arrangement is slightly different since each plug has
its own coil. In any event the rotor cap and wires have to be removed. Fig 7
shows the engine with this part removed. Be careful of the naked white
plastic rotor arm it is now exposed when handling the engine.
Next we remove the fuel lines to the
engine. These come directly from the gas tank through the fuel pump up to
the front of the fuel line rail. Figure 8 shows these being opened.
Next all electrical connections from the engine to the rest of the car are
disconnected. These are primarily connections to the cars LIE computer
system. Be extremely careful to color code and note which connection goes
where.. While some connectors are different from each other there are a few
that can me cross mixed. In order to get to some of these connectors you
have to displace the water overflow tank and air filter boxes Fig 9.
Next we remove the head manifold cover Fig 10. This is necessary because the
attachment points for the chains to lift the engine out of the car will
press on this cover and scratch/dent it. It is held in place with
three bolts along the center of the engine. Be sure and cover the exposed
engine piston air inlets with a cover immediately after removing the
manifold cover. You do not want to have anything fall into that place. This
is shown in Fig 11.
Next we have to disconnect the air conditioning
hoses. You need to first drain the system of air conditioning fluid. This
requires a specialized piece of equipment. You may rent it or get it done at
an A/C shop before you start this work. Then open the connection to the
compressor (Fig 12). Thinking about this in retrospect It may be
possible to disconnect the compressor and leave it hanging free of the
engine without disconnecting hoses. This would simplify things greatly.
In any event if you do disconnect the A/C hoses be very careful to keep the
ends clean. Any dirt in the system will cause compressor failure later.
Next is an easy one. We disconnect the copper
braded ground wires that attach the engine to the frame of the car. These
ground wires are seen in figure 13. Next we disconnect the accelerator cable
at the front of the engine Fig 14. Then we open the bolts attaching
the rear of the engine to the frame of the car. The bracket attaches to the
rear axel differential unit, Fig 15. Next we need to disconnect the oil
line going to the clutch slave cylinder (Fig 16). Watch out for oil
leaks! Next we disconnect the axle rod connections for the rear wheels, Fig 17. There are four bolts and two c shaped brackets involved.
Note as you disassemble this part that there are two sprockets (one between
each pair of bolts) that must be lined up for the unit to fit
together. Next we release the front engine mount from the frame of the car.
There are four bolts holding the support to the frame of the car and one
large bolt attaching the engine itself to this support Fig 18. The
gear shift leaver running into the interior of the car also needs to be
disconnected. This involves removing the shift ball and shift gate. Opening
the 4 bolts attaching the unit to the frame and dropping it down between the
central well of the car.
Now comes the exciting part. A hoist with
four chains is attached to the engine as shown in figures 19 and 20. and the
whole engine is carefully lifted out of the car. This will take some
time a few inches at a time. Make sure nothing catches to the car frame. It
is necessary to change the angle of the engine as it is being removed from
horizontal to about 50 degrees. Two people holding the swinging engine can
easily do this while another raises it mechanically. Figure 21 shows car
with engine removed.
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